The truth is, every season is harvest time for the farmers who provide us with the bounty they grow on their farms.
In early spring, crops such as asparagus, fiddle head ferns, garlic scapes, ramps and various greens (an assortment of lettuce among them) are in abundance. Summer brings berries, melons, and stone fruits, peppers, carrots, potatoes, leafy greens and herbs.
I grow my own herbs, as I can’t imagine cooking without them. Their demise at the beginning of autumn guts me (as the English say). August and September mean that sweet corn and tomatoes of every hue and size will be available at the farmers’ markets (and in your own personal gardens, if you’re lucky). There’s nothing better than a firm, fresh, juicy tomato straight from the vine, sprinkled with a tiny bit of flaky sea salt.
As early as September and as late as November you will find one of the oddest-looking vegetables on the vine: Brussels sprouts. They have been much maligned over time but try coating them (along with 2 or 3 peeled and sliced shallots) with extra-virgin olive oil, sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and oven-roasting them at 425 degrees until crisp-skinned and tender. Drizzle with a spoonful of aged balsamic vinegar or local maple syrup and toss a handful of chopped roasted almonds or pecans on top. Divine!
Also in September, gorgeous, sweet and pulpy grapes in shades of red, green and purple hit the farmers’ markets and are terrific in fruit salads or frozen for snacks, eaten out of hand, as my sister, Janet, does. A recipe I adapted from the New York Times for baked chicken thighs with shallots and little clusters of juicy grapes was a big hit every time I made it and was worth Googling.
Cool weather crops are on display when October and November roll around. Summer has faded and the air is nippy, and jackets and sweaters are pulled from the closets. Autumn produce is an explosion of color. Apples, from tart to sweet, make their appearance. Gala is an excellent eating apple; Cortland is semi-sweet and perfect for pies and apple sauce; bright, green-colored Granny Smith is tart and juicy; Empire is a cross between McIntosh and Red Delicious; there are heirloom varieties, as well.
Pears are another fruit of the season. They are wonderful layered in a gratin with sliced sweet potatoes and combined with heavy cream and grated Gruyere cheese. Poached pears in wine make for a dramatic dessert. Winter squash such as pumpkins, butternut and acorn are ready for soups and oven-roasting, as are root vegetables like carrots, parsnips, turnips and potatoes. Onions, garlic and leeks are available due to their ability to keep well in storage, and hardy leafy greens like kale and collards are great for sauteing in good extra-virgin olive oil with slivered garlic cloves.
Oven-roasted vegetables are so good because high heat caramelizes their natural sugars, creating sweetness and complex flavors. Roasting achieves a perfect balance of textures, creating crisp edges and a tender interior that is, to me, more appealing than steamed or boiled vegetables.
Autumn harvest season is important in that it represents the culmination of the growing year. Celebrations, like Thanksgiving and Oktoberfest, highlight the joy of abundant seasonal foods and family gatherings. It’s about embracing and readying for the cold months of winter, when we hunker down in our homes and what we prepare in our kitchens becomes heartier, more substantial, and earthier than other times of the year. For me, it’s a time for the Dutch oven or soup pot to make an appearance. Around this time, particularly for side dishes (but good options for vegetarian fare) I favor gratineed or oven-roasted vegetables, and though I normally don’t like “stewed” anything, dishes like Moroccan tajines of lamb or chicken with dried fruit and chickpeas, and lamb or pork chops or thick, juicy steaks served with grains are comforting. This is an opportunity for people to come together, sharing in the bounty and, hopefully, fostering a sense of connection and unity.
Winter squash such as pumpkins, butternut and acorn are ready for soups and oven-roasting, as are root vegetables like carrots, parsnips, turnips and potatoes.
RR photo by Jude Waterston
Serves 4
1 ¼ cup heavy cream
2 cloves garlic, smashed
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
½ of a small butternut squash
2 medium sized sweet potatoes
2 medium sized potatoes
1 ½ teaspoons chopped fresh thyme (or use dried thyme, but cut down on the amount)
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 cups shredded Gruyere cheese
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Grease a medium sized gratin dish (9 x 10 or 11 inches) with the butter. In a small saucepan, pour in the cream and add the smashed garlic cloves. Bring the cream just to a simmer. Let simmer for a couple of minutes, then remove the garlic cloves, and set the cream aside. Stir the cooling cream occasionally to help prevent a skin from forming. Meanwhile, thinly slice the squash, sweet potatoes, and potatoes (no more than 1/8 inch thick) and keep them separate from each other. In the casserole dish, spread half of the sliced butternut squash out in a single layer. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, some of the thyme and some of the cheese. Build a new layer using the sweet potatoes, and repeat the process with salt, pepper, thyme and some cheese. Layer the potatoes down next and repeat the process. Use the remaining slices of any remaining vegetables for the last layer. Pour the cream over the vegetables and shake the dish gently to distribute the cream. Sprinkle on the remaining cheese. Cover the dish with foil and bake the gratin in the middle of the oven for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and move the gratin to the top 1/3 of the oven. Bake for an additional 15 to 20 minutes, until the vegetables are tender when pierced with a sharp knife. If you like, broil for a couple of minutes, so the cheese is bubbly and the top a golden brown. Let cool 10 minutes before serving.
Serves 4 – 6
If you find a bulb of fennel at the farmers’ market or supermarket, consider adding slices of it. It’s extraordinary when roasted.
2 medium red-skinned sweet potatoes (or yams), halved lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 1 ½-inch pieces
2 medium Yukon gold potatoes, halved lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 1 ½-inch pieces
2 small red onions or 3 – 4 shallots, peeled, and quartered
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons pure maple syrup
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme leaves
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Lightly oil a large, rimmed jelly roll baking sheet. In a small bowl, combine olive oil, maple syrup, rosemary and thyme. Place all the vegetables in a large bowl. Pour oil mixture over; toss to coat. Season the vegetables generously with salt and pepper. Spread out vegetables in a single layer on the baking sheet. Roast until tender and golden brown, stirring occasionally, about 30 – 35 minutes. Serve immediately.
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