jude’s culinary journey

Cheese, please

By JUDE WATERSTON
Posted 10/23/24

Along with the fruit-and-vegetable crisper bins in my fridge, I have another long drawer where I keep a stock of cheese. I always have a minimum of half a dozen types on hand. For the most part, I …

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jude’s culinary journey

Cheese, please

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Along with the fruit-and-vegetable crisper bins in my fridge, I have another long drawer where I keep a stock of cheese. I always have a minimum of half a dozen types on hand. For the most part, I shop for cheese at the Peck’s in Callicoon, NY (which has a separate fridge for local cheese makers such as Tonjes Farm Dairy in Callicoon and Calkins Creamery in Honesdale, PA) and ShopRite in Monticello, NY (which has a more extensive variety).

In general, I store two aged cow’s milk cheeses for grating over pasta dishes, using as a component in meatballs, or sliced into shards and added to Ceasar or other mixed green salads. One is grana Padano, and the other is the longer-aged Parmigiano-Reggiano. In addition, I like a sheep’s-milk grating cheese with a slightly stronger, pungent taste, called pecorino romano. I appreciate aged Gruyère cheese for its nutty flavor in quiches, omelets and savory vegetable bread puddings. And creamy Italian fontina, Dutch gouda, and English cheddar are wonderful for mac and cheese and, in general, for their meltability. The only sliced cheese I buy is muenster cheese, which I use to line a pie dish for making crustless quiche, and I sometimes buy crumbled feta and a log of soft, mild, tangy chèvre, which is goat’s milk cheese.

The world of cheese has grown exponentially in the past 25 years, beginning with the cheese bible, “The Cheese Primer,” written in 1996 by Steve Jenkins of Fairway Supermarket. Jenkins introduced us to artisan cheese makers from around the world; described the tastes, textures and uses of various cheeses; and gave instructions on preparing a cheese platter for guests—platters such as those brought round in fine restaurants as a dessert option. Cheese trays—or boards, as they are also known—are perfect for cocktail parties or as part of an assortment of hors d’oeuvres.

When I’m feeling flush or have special guests arriving, I head over to peruse the amazing assortment of cheese available in Callicoon at Spruce Home Goods. It’s a delight to have an educated cheesemonger who knows what he’s selling and offers tastes to his customers as he explains the virtues of certain cheeses. David and Lori, the owners, have inhabited this beautiful space for many years and filled it with gorgeous, hand-picked housewares and high-end food products. David, a chef, also prepares food for take-out. Spruce certainly is a classy institution in the neighborhood.

Another place I recently discovered while driving through Jeffersonville, NY, is a specialty grocer and cheese shop called Sullivan Sundries. The sign above the door reads, “Inspire. Gather. Eat. Repeat.” Inside is a large space with shelves of high-quality food items and condiments, and there is a large assortment of international cheese.

One thing to keep in mind when buying cheese at either of these stores is that the prices listed are for a QUARTER of a pound. Most fine cheeses of this sort cost between $20 and $30 a pound.

And so, if you’re a cheese lover, as I am, you now know where you can purchase this delicious and versatile ingredient in your neighborhood or nearby. Create your own cheese board for guests or for yourself. Choose four or five types of cheese to represent a balanced spectrum of types and textures. A firm cheese such as a well-aged Parmigiano-Reggiano is a good place to start, or an aged Spanish manchego. Next should be semi-firm cheeses such as Gouda, Gruyère, or Italian fontina. Move on to soft or spreadable types such as Brie, Camembert or chèvre. Finally, add some funky varieties, like blue cheeses such as Gorgonzola, Stilton or Roquefort. Basic accompaniments should be a variety of good-quality crackers (preferably whole grain) and crusty bread, and a beverage such as wine or sangria. Also on the platter should be dried fruit (such as figs or dates); a glistening assortment of olives; a clump of juicy, seedless grapes; and toasted walnuts, pecans or almonds. Eat up!

judes culinary journey, cheese please

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