If I told you I had Georgian food last summer, you might picture me and my sister Janet on a warm and sunny day at a picnic table covered with a red-and-white, plastic, checkered tablecloth. We would be chowing down on crispy fried chicken, creamy macaroni and cheese, and silky collard greens, followed by a wedge of warm peach pie. Shrimp and grits would’ve been another choice, as Georgia is known for its prized wild shrimp. Or we might have ordered barbequed pork ribs (or pulled pork sandwiches) and chicken with dumplings, fried green tomatoes and fried okra, with pecan pie for dessert. Southerners like their food fried and have a sweet tooth for pralines, a cola, pie and heavily sugared iced tea, to name a few examples. 

Truth is, I’ve never been to the South, with the exception of a couple of trips to New Orleans, where I gorged on cold, sweet raw oysters on the half shell daily.

The Georgian food I’m talking about is the cuisine of the small, mountainous country Georgia in the Caucasus region on the coast of the Black Sea. And though bordered to the north by Russia, it is regarded as part of Europe and has a unique Kartvelian language with its own ancient alphabet. The food is unusual and rich in flavors influenced by Mediterranean, Turkish and Middle Eastern traditions, and it’s different and more complex than many other foods. 

Georgian restaurants have been popping up in New York City in the past few years. One opened earlier, in 2014, called Old Tbilisi Garden (174 Bleecker St. between Sullivan and MacDougal) that was actually at the end of my block. I can’t explain why I never dined there, but perhaps I didn’t investigate enough, being stumped by the pronunciation of most of the dishes. Instead, years later I discovered Chama Mama, which opened in 2019, at 149 West 14th St. I was bowled over by the strong emphasis on walnuts, pomegranate, rich stews, kebobs, cheese, bread and especially the use of fresh herbs, such as cilantro, dill, tarragon and basil among many others.

I’ve eaten at Chama Mama half a dozen times but on a recent visit to the city, I finally tried Old Tbilisi Gardens. The menu has dishes similar to those at Chama Mama, highlighting traditional popular Georgian eats. Khachapuri, the oozing cheese-filled breads, are a standout, and I tried one stuffed with a mélange of Georgian cheeses (one of which is sulgani) as well as spinach and sliced scallions. The most fascinating bread is called adjaruli and it is boat-shaped with pinched edges. Inside is melted butter and melted cheese and sitting atop is an egg yolk. The egg yolk is gently stirred into the mixture and the resulting conglomeration is a heavenly gooey delight eaten with chunks of the bread. Another surprising dish—this one at Chama Mama—is smashed chunks of crispy fried potatoes seasoned with salt, tarragon and dill. They are not French fries; they are crusty Georgian out-of-this-world potatoes. 

The plump purse-shaped savory dumplings called khinkali were filled with intensely flavored mushrooms. They can also be ordered filled with spiced meats, such as lamb, or a mixture of beef and pork, cheese or potatoes. The fillings of the dumplings are soaked in flavorful broth, so that the inside is juicy and packed with flavor. Msvadi, chunks of marinated grilled pork served on skewers, were terrific, but I think my favorite dish (at both Georgian restaurants I’ve been to) was the bright, herby, refreshing, palate-cleansing salad that often starts off the meal. You can have it with crunchy greens, sweet corn and radishes, as well as herbs such as cilantro, basil (often purple) and dill, or a delicious classic Georgian salad (minus the greens) of ripe tomato wedges, crisp cucumber chunks, and thinly sliced red onions (or scallions) with the same mélange of herbs as above, as well as mint and tarragon. I have made both kinds this summer and never tire of them. They serve as the spark that lights up a Georgian meal. 

This is the perfect time of year to use all of the herbs growing in your home gardens or bought at one of the local farmers’ markets in Sullivan County, as well as the abundance of tomatoes and cucumbers. A perfect late-summer salad packed with flavors you’ll remember long into fall.