A Living from the River. Ray Turner's Delaware Delicacies Smoke House
Ray Turner makes his living from the river and it takes a lot of work. In fact, if you want to talk with Turner, you talk with him while he is working.
“I’ve already done the preliminary evisceration. This is the second step, when I get the guts out,” said the 64-year-old Turner, peering out from his thick gray-black beard and his full length, brown leather work apron. “You need to get your fingers underneath the liver near the head, start from the top and pull the guts out in one piece. I designed this tool—a tablespoon with a sharpened edge and two notches cut in that fit around the spine—to scrape the body cavity clean.”
The guts Turner is removing belong to a sliced open, 27-inch long, 20-plus-year-old Anguilla rostrata. It’s the snake-like American eel native to local rivers and now on its way to becoming one of Turner’s signature products—smoked eel—that he sells locally from his deep woods deli shop and by mail across the United States.
Turner owns and is the only employee of Delaware Delicacies Smoke House, located in a pine forest at the end of a dirt road along the East Branch of the Delaware River outside of Hancock, NY. The smoked eel business is year-round work.
The blue plastic tub filled with thawing eels that he’s gutting on this warm March afternoon were caught in Turner’s mid-river, stone eel weir the previous September during the eels’ annual autumn migration. For the eels that Turner traps, the migration begins in the pools and riffles above his property and ends, for those not caught by Turner or others along the way, in the Sargasso Sea, in the south central Atlantic Ocean, where Anguilla mates and spawns and dies and starts the lifecycle anew.
According to Turner, the migration or run of these catadromous fish begins a week or so either side of September 29 each year. A new moon and high muddy water gets things moving. The main part of the run lasts just a few nights, during which Turner can trap hundreds or even thousands of eels.
Turner freezes much of his autumn catch. He cleans and smokes them in the winter and spring to keep a supply of smoked eel on hand for sale.
“I spend the summer preparing for the run,” he said. Turner described a process of stacking rocks to build a V-shaped weir across the width of the East Branch, and constructing a five-foot-wide by 50-foot-long wooden fish trap at the downstream point of the “V”, where the fish are caught in slated boxes and hauled in. Neighbors, friends and guys who think trapping eels is a pretty cool thing to do are on hand to help Turner harvest his business inventory.