A taste of tradition for the holidays: Kutia

Wheat with honey and poppyseed

By NADIA RAJSZ

Kutia is one of the most sacred of all Slavic ritual dishes. It is a

traditional component of the Ukrainian Christmas Eve meal of 12 meatless dishes. It is usually served reverently as the first dish of Sviat Vechir (Christmas Eve) cold, and everyone at the meal must have at least a spoonful.

Kutia is a symbol of fertility and abundance on the Ukrainian table. It is one of the oldest and most traditional foods in Ukrainian culture.

It is also a tradition to take a spoonful of the kutia and throw it to the ceiling to foretell prosperity for the coming year. If it sticks, the family will have a prosperous new year.

Centuries ago, in a Ukrainian peasant home, kutia was usually prepared the day before Sviat Vechir and then carried and placed in the “pokuttia,” the all-important corner of the room where the icons were. As the designated person carried the kutia, they recited, “Ide kutia na pokuttia” (the kutia is going to the pokuttia). The bowl of kutia was placed on hay, with the didukh (sheaf of wheat) next to it. Uzvar (compote of dried fruits) was also placed alongside, with the words “A ty uzvar pidesh na bazar” (and you, uzvar, will go to the bazaar).

Kutia is also left on a dish at the empty place setting at Sviat Vechir. It is left for the “Duch” (the spirit of those who passed away or could not be with us).

The usual number of dishes ranged from 12 (representing the number of apostles) to nine or seven, considered magical numbers. Sheaves of wheat or rye, symbols of fertility, were placed under icons of the Virgin and Child. Hay from the first harvest was scattered on the table, and the table was set with a cloth. A large Kolach, a type of bread, was placed in the center and set with candles.

Below is my mother’s recipe for kutia.

Stefanie Polehenky’s kutia

INGREDIENTS

1 cup wheat

½ pound poppy seeds

Boiling water

8 ounces honey

8 ounces water, boiled and cooled

PROCEDURE

Cook wheat in boiling water until soft, let stand until it cools completely. The water should evaporate off during boiling just as it does when one cooks rice.

Add boiling water to poppy seeds to cover. Let soak for one hour.

Slowly drain poppy seeds, then add more boiled water to cover and let stand for one more hour.

Drain water off poppy seeds slowly.

Taking one tablespoon at a time, grind poppy seeds until they are ground completely.

Add ground poppy seeds to the cooled wheat.

Add honey and 8 ounces of boiled but cooled water to the cooled wheat and poppy mixture.

Mix well.

For variety, add raisins and walnuts. Enjoy a very traditional Ukrainian Christmas food.