Calkins Creamery

Blending the past and the now into artisan cheeses

By MARY GREENE

HONESDALE, PA — It’s a family affair, and it has been for 125 years.

Highland Farm, set in green, gently rolling hills outside the town of Honesdale, was first cultivated by Burton and Elizabeth Bryant in the 1880s. Five generations later, Emily Bryant Montgomery and her husband Jay returned to the farm from California, lured by what they call a “strong sense of place.” Highland Farm has not been immune to the struggles of many small traditional farms in America—the land is rich, the know-how is there and the work ethic remains, but milk pricing methods and higher expenses make it hard to make a living.

Unless, that is, you have a new vision.

The young couple, experienced in the manufacture of cheese and ice cream, wrote a business plan that states, “Calkins Creamery will specialize in fine, artisan cheeses, using the freshest milk possible from our own registered Holsteins.” Oh yes, the cows are still there, as are beef cattle and pigs, cared for by Emily’s father Bill and brother Zack. (Sadly, another brother and co-owner, Michael Bryant passed away in September.) The 80-some milking cows are happy and well cared for, according to Emily, and “cow comfort results in an increase in milk production and butterfat.”

“We made our first batch of cheese in January,” said Jay, who runs the marketing part of the business. “It’s raw milk cheese, so it ages a minimum of 60 days.” Their first sale was in April. “Cheese is an affordable luxury item,” he said. “It costs a little bit more, but it’s an extravagance that most people can manage. Coupled with a bottle of wine, you have a treat.”

Sales are not a problem. “Everything we make,” said Jay, “is already sold.” They sell in many local venues with Center for Discovery as their biggest customer. The Sullivan County, NY organization, which provides services to the disabled, is following a trend to “buy everything local,” said Jay.

The cheese is made by Emily, the youngest Bryant daughter, who was raised on the farm. She continues to experiment and perfect her methods. Among the cheeses now in production are Goudas, cheddars and havartis with imaginative names like Cow Tipper, 4 Dog Dill and Barn Red Ched. Who does the naming? “Everyone gets in the act,” said Emily. “Vampire Slayer, with flavorings of garlic, onion and a paprika-ginger blend, was my mom’s pick.” The cheese is so local, said Jay, that even what the cows are grazing on seasonally affects the taste. They currently produce 800 pounds a week, and Emily hopes to develop a line of blue cheese soon.

Nothing is wasted, either. The by-product of cheese-making, called whey, is fed to the pigs, which, Jay said, turns into exquisitely flavored pork, for sale at the creamery as well. The farm also sells beef from cattle that are grass fed “when that is possible,” said Jay, taking into account the four seasons of the region. Generally, orders are taken in advance for pork sales, and beef can be ordered ahead or purchased on a visit to the creamery.

The Montgomerys had their second child, Jess Rylan Michael, on September 27. Rylan is a younger brother for Elyse, who is two. Emily likes the full circle of family that living on the farm brings. She remembers how it was when she was a child, and hopes she can pass on that kind of lifestyle to her children.

Bill sees new life in more ways than one at Highland Farm. The new farm bill did not do much to help farmers, he said, and “the way things are, the price of milk in the supermarket can go up and farmers won’t see a penny of it.” The Bryant/Montgomerys see a great expanding market for artisan cheese, in restaurants and farmers markets, supermarkets and nearby cities. Bill is not afraid of the competition. “The more farmers that can start doing it, the better,” he said.

The creamery is open Saturdays from 11:00 a.m. until 3:00 p.m. or by appointment. For more information visit www.calkinscreamery.com (and check out the inaugural issue of Milk Can, the Calkins Creamery newsletter), email happycow@calkinscreamery.com or call 570/729-8103.