TRR photo by Charlie Buterbaugh Flowers bloom at the Callicoon Market. (Click for larger image)

55 M.P.H. chicken

By PENNI BUCHAL

In the small village of Liberty, nestled in the Catskill Mountains, is a phenomenon known to few but beloved of many. At the Sullivan County Area Farmers’ Market every Friday, rain or shine, Miller’s Barbeque from Walton appears. They arrive three hours before the market opens to set up their giant charcoal grill and start cooking what is thought by many to be the best chicken in three counties.

	TRR photo by Melinda Leone Solomon’s Rose Products travels from Newburgh to sell at the Liberty Market. (Click for larger image)

The chicken, savored as a fine Friday treat by market patrons, is manna from heaven to most of the 30 plus vendors that participate in the market. What happens to the chicken on the way home is where the wonder begins. It is rare that the vendors have a chance to eat on market day. Their day starts as the sunrises. They are out in their fields, orchards, berry patches and gardens harvesting their produce so it is fresh for the market that day. After the harvest they are busy loading their trucks, vans and station wagons. Then it is off to the market, which for some is over an hour’s drive away. They have no time for breakfast, no time for lunch and no time for dinner as that is prime customer time at the market. But Miller’s barbeque is calling. The smell of the chicken permeates the air and helps to keep their appetites at bay as they fill up on the smell of chicken. Then the market is over.

	TRR photo by Melinda Leone Gotsoap.com from Branchville, NJ is a regular at the Liberty, Roscoe and Callicoon Markets, as well as Narrowsburg’s Riverfest. (Click for larger image)

Weary feet take them to the chicken man who has saved everyone half a bird and a side of macaroni or coleslaw. But a long drive home awaits them and then the chore of unlading and cleaning their vehicles for the next market day, which will start at daylight the next morning. They have no time to sit around and eat their chicken as they unwind for the day. Tomorrow is another market.

The market is through and end-of-the-day taps is played by the slamming of vehicle doors, the softly murmured goodbyes and the salute of the horn as they pull out of the market lot. That is when the 55 m.p.h. chicken begins.

	TRR photo by Melinda Leone Bread Alone from Kingston makes the trip for both the Liberty and Callicoon Markets. (Click for larger image)

As the vendors stop at the traffic lights on the drive out of town, the wipies come out and chicken bags are opened. As the light changes the drumstick goes in the mouth, a gear is shifted and they are off. Their speed increases, the chicken is chewed and by the time they swallow that first mouth-watering bite they are going 55 m.p.h. Riding with a vendor at this time is like watching a ballet of synchronization, hit the brake, chew, grab a wing and negotiate a turn, grab a wipie and clean the shift knob before the next shift. Stuff some chicken in the mouth and slam on the brakes, cursing around a piece of chicken because some mindless driver has cut them off. Step on the clutch, put a chicken bone in the bag, reach for the shifter.

For some of the drivers, this procedure is made even more adventurous by the ringing of the cell phone. They grab a wipie and the phone is cradled between their neck and chin as they shift and chew and drive and talk and wipe the steering wheel down. This is how the chicken has earned the nickname 55 m.p.h. chicken and no chicken gourmet or otherwise has ever tasted as good as the barbeque Miller’s provides when eaten in a speeding vehicle on the way home from the farmers market.

The Summer Markets

• Bethel, NY. Woodstock site. July 5 to Aug. 16, Saturday 9:00 a.m. to noon.
• Callicoon, NY. Callicoon Creek Park, May 18 to Nov. 2, Sunday 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.
• Liberty, NY 12754. Darbee Lane. Now thru Oct. 10, Friday 3:00 to 7:00 p.m.
•  Roscoe, NY Highland Ave, May 25 to Oct. 12. Sunday 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.
• Honesdale, PA 570/729-0401. Visitors’ Center. Now thru Oct. 25. Saturday 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.
• Fall Garden Harvest Market, Bethel, NY 295-2443 Farm products & crafts. Live music each week, special events, hay maze, pony rides, maze, scarecrows.