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Matters of Taste by Dorothy Hartz  

 

Roasting chestnuts by the fire

“Chestnuts roasting by an open fire” should be more than a line in a song at this holiday time of year. Satisfactory results can be achieved by cooking them in a skillet on top of the range or by a shallow baking pan in the oven, but if you have the open fire, why deny yourself the charm of roasting them?

Before roasting, the shells must be slit first to prevent bursting. Using a small, sharp paring knife, cut a cross on the flat side of the nut, piercing the shell completely. For fireplace cookery, place nuts in a long-handled receptacle such as a popcorn popper, without crowding, and hold it just above the flame. Shake occasionally, but do not place in direct flame, or the shell will char before the nut becomes tender. The process should take about 15 minutes. When the shells have blackened nicely, transfer them to a newspaper to cool. Peel and eat while still warm. A well- cooked chestnut will be a slightly resistant to touch but soft and almost creamy within.

If oven roasting is your option, preheat to 350 degrees, arrange slit nuts in a single layer, and cook for about 30 minutes. Stovetop cooking should be done in a heavy skillet, which complicates shaking, but it is a necessary part of the process.

What to do with them when you’ve munched your fill? Read on.

Most recipes using chestnuts actually call for boiled chestnuts. Since roasting is sometimes suggested as an end to merely deshell the nuts before boiling, you can continue by boiling your roasted variety if they are not already soft enough to puree. Just cover with boiling water and cook until absolutely soft.

Chestnuts are, of course, a favored ingredient in stuffing. Other traditional pairings for cooked chestnuts are Brussels sprouts and red cabbage. For a festive dish, stuff cooked green peppers with a mix of chopped cooked chestnuts and red cabbage.

Here’s a different side dish for ham or poultry.

Prunes and Chestnuts
From “The Joy of Cooking”

Place in a casserole:

1 and 1/2 cups chestnuts
3/4 cup pitted stewed prunes

Combine, heat, and pour over above:

1 tblsp butter
1/4 tsp salt
1 tblsp sugar (optional)
1/2 cup dry white wine.

Heat thoroughly. Serves 4-6.

Finally, a chestnut dessert.

Chestnut Cake
A variation on a recipe from “The Silver Palate Cookbook”

An exceptionally good yellow layer cake adorned with chestnut puree.

2 cups sugar
4 eggs
1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup dry white wine
2 and 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp salt
2 and 1/4 tsps baking powder
1 tsp vanilla
warm chocolate icing of choice
3/4 cup sweetened chestnut puree

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour two 9-inch layer pans.

2. Beat sugar and eggs together with an electric mixer set on medium for 30 seconds. Add oil, wine, flour, salt, baking powder and vanilla. Beat for 1 minute.

3. Pour batter into pans and bake on the middle rack of the oven for 30 minutes or until a knife inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean.

4. Let cakes cool for at least 2 hours before frosting.

5. Arrange 1 layer on a serving plate. Spread with chocolate icing. Set the second layer and spread with chestnut puree. Cover the sides with remaining icing.

6. Chill for 45 minutes before serving.

Eat well.


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