The Carriage House
Junction of Routes 97 and 55
Barryville, NY
845/557-0400

The good news is that the familiar red and white restaurant, formerly Reber’s, a landmark along the river corridor for decades, has a second chance to do what it did so well in the past — provide good food and entertain to an easy yet elegant European standard. The requirements are already there. The new owners, Attila and Agnes Benke, turn out a thoughtfully created, richly flavored menu while exuding good intentions and concern for their customers as well as the knowledge and experience of seasoned restauranteurs. The building’s tiled facade, the leather wainscoted dining rooms with coffered ceilings, the parquet dance floor, all suggest not just a past but a future of comfort and festivity.

The bad news is that they appear to be trying to do it all by themselves, unfortunately to the detriment of those good intentions. Is it true that you just can’t get good help these days? I am forced to that conclusion after my more than leisurely meal.

The auspicious beginning was an ample serving of chilled sour cherry and apple soup, made with just enough heavy cream to bind the fragrant fruit esters in the bowl. Cold soup usually doesn’t interest me, but it proved a perfect appetizer in hot, muggy weather. Although the liquid was sweet, the alkaline cherries refreshed the taste buds for what followed. Also pleasing was the cool mesclun salad with (at last!) tasty tomatoes. Agnes presented the unadorned salads with silver boats of liquid bleu cheese or balsamic vinaigrette, served to specified amount on the spot, offering a simple solution to the familiar salad dressing quandary in which pre-dressed orders seem to offer a choice of too much or too little. Husband Ron and I both were happy with the smoky, herby vinaigrette.

Bleu cheese appeared again as a baked crust on the beautiful filet mignon Ron was glad he ordered. A fungiphobe, he had eschewed the filet with portabello described as a special of the day, but Agnes leaped on the opportunity to provide a creative alternative. My entry was a fishkebob, tender chunks of salmon, sole and shrimp alternating with vegetables, which were consistently cooked through, a sometimes elusive but desirable quality in skewered food. In a daring reversal of expectation, Ron ordered rice, prepared with peas, and I the parsleyed potatoes with our respective entrees. Both were rich versions, as were the peppery, melting zucchini and carrots served with them.

As satisfied as we were with the food, the wait to get to enjoy it somewhat dimmed our pleasure. We had spent a bit over two hours on a midweek early evening to bring us to what is usually my reason to go out dinner, i.e. dessert, but Ron’s impatience was not to be curbed as more diners arrived in a small but steady stream, boding an even longer wait between courses. I listened regretfully to what Agnes described as “Hungarian tiramisu,” noted the alternative of apple strudel and determined to return for one or both when a brisk, busy wait staff will make life easier for all concerned.

The filet at $20.95 and the kebob at $14.95 were appropriately priced. The soup, Ron’s two beers and my glass of very nice pinot grigio brought the bill to $49.

Open seven days from 5:00 p.m.
Reservations recommended
Wedding and catering packages available
Ample parking