A fine and dandy spring green

It won’t be long now. The weathermen are promising warmth. The ground is ready. Legions of dandelions will soon dot the landscape, gladdening the hearts of children and, for a brief while, cooks.

Practically everyone knows that dandelion greens are a nutritious spring tonic, but few of my acquaintance actually do anything about it. The knack to enjoying the greens is to harvest them a) while they’re very young and b) from areas unaffected by lawn and garden chemicals. Even small, light green leaves can be surprisingly leathery and overly bitter. According to Dr. Bernard Jensen, author of “Foods That Heal,” “tender, fresh, young green leaves that are still attached to a portion of the root are likely to be succulent. When leaves are separated from the base they wilt rapidly. Seed stems are an indication of age and toughness.”

Dr. Jensen speaks from generations of folk wisdom as well as science when he touts the virtues of the dandelion. Rich in vitamin A and potassium, which gives the bitter taste, its greens are a wonderful liver cleanser and skin nourisher.

If foraging is not your style, you could rely on the increasingly available commercial varieties. Either way, at the very least, spark your usual salad with a handful of the greens. Or prepare the larger leaves as you would spinach, but use more water. If you like what you taste, kick back for an al fresco lunch featuring one of the following recipes and watch the crabgrass grow. Somewhere over the rainbow, there’s even a recipe for that.

Dandelion omelet

3 strips bacon
4 eggs
4 sliced mushrooms
1 cup dandelion greens, chopped fine
1/2 cup grated cheese (mozzarella, provolone, muenster and/or mild cheddar)

1. Fry bacon until crisp in an omelet pan. Crumble into a small bowl, reserving the fat.

2. Sauté mushrooms in bacon fat for a minute or so. Add dandelion greens and sauté until wilted. Remove mushrooms and greens to bowl with the bacon.

3. Scramble the eggs lightly in the same pan. Add other ingredients in an even layer and cook until eggs reach desired firmness. Two servings.

Dandelion salad with Italian dressing

1 lb. dandelion greens, washed and cut into two-inch pieces
1 medium onion, chopped fine
1 pimento, minced
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 tsp. sugar
1/2 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. pepper
1/8 tsp. oregano
whites of 2 hard boiled eggs, riced or diced

1. Combine greens, onion and pimento in a salad bowl.

2. In another bowl, blend or vigorously mix vinegar, water, oil, sugar and seasonings.

3. Pour over greens and toss. Garnish with chopped egg. Six servings.

If you’ve read this far, the “tooth of the lion” plant has caught your attention. Once the brief greens season has passed, plan ahead for fall and use those bright yellow flowers.

Dandelion wine

Ray Bradbury wouldn’t have named a collection of stories “Dandelion Wine” for no particular reason. Try some—then make up your own stories.

2 1/2 quarts tightly packed dandelion blossoms, picked in full bloom at midday
4 quarts boiling water
3 lbs. sugar
1 lb. seedless raisins
1 orange
1 lemon
1/2 cake yeast

1. Wash and drain blossoms.

2. In a large container, pour boiling water over blossoms, cover and let stand overnight.

3. Strain out blossoms and discard them. Return liquid to container and add sugar.

4. Put fruit through a food chopper and add to liquid. Add yeast. Cover and let stand until thoroughly fermented, stirring mixture daily. Do not store near heat.

5. Strain and bottle. Do not cork tightly for several days. Best used in autumn after bottling. Makes four quarts.

Eat and drink well.