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Matters of Taste by Dorothy Hartz  

 

1906 Restaurant
121 Main Street, Callicoon, NY 12723
845/887-1906

Callicoon on a late winter Sunday evening might not seem like a happening place to be, unless, of course, you have serious dining in mind. Welcome to 1906, a premier restaurant of the river valley, where excellence and ambiance converge in a narrow, attractive brick building wearing a string of sparkles on an otherwise darkened Main Street.

Inside, owner and chef Bob DeCristofaro keeps the true stars sparkling. Four-star dishes that reflect five-star originality—buffalo and ostrich are always on the menu. A wine book, as opposed to a wine list, esteemed by Wine Spectator magazine. Diversity—an appetizer menu with both pierogies and sacchetini. Presentation without pretentiousness. Freshness. Quality.

Husband Ron and I started with cups of peppery black bean soup. The broth, substantial but liquid, held perfectly textured beans, firm but yielding. The complex seasoning made me want more, but the richness argued against spoiling myself for what I knew would be good things to come. The salad, arriving in a timely fashion, was mixed greens and reds with veggies. Ron’s choice of raspberry vinaigrette dressing, despite the startlingly fresh taste of the raspberry, had proven too sweet for me on previous occasions, so I took the creamy vinaigrette, on the side. A slice from the basket of crusty bread took the edge off its welcome but assertive tartness.

I was intrigued by the salmon Wellington, having encountered his lordship’s dish only in the beef mode, but I had some trepidation about the crab meat stuffing, which shared the pastry pouch with the salmon. I’m glad I got over it, earned from too many experiences with too cloying a preparation of the crab. Here, an unobtrusive layer tissued the thick, tender filet from its papery gilt pastry wrapping. The pastry fish icon sealing the package completed its gift guise, which I was happy to take personally, since we were celebrating my birthday.

Ron had broiled yellow fin tuna, a special of the day, which he described as moist, well-seasoned and of a comfortable texture. His wild rice and my roasted potatoes were accompanied with whole sugar snap pea pods and carrots. All were excellent.

Other dinner entrees, served with soup and salad, ranging from $20 to $30, feature the aforementioned buffalo and ostrich as steaks, breast of chicken with wild rice, pignole and sun dried tomato, shrimp francese and red snapper. A light entree menu, averaging at $18, available with either soup or salad, lists duck framboise, veal francese, chicken marsala and shrimp scampi. Pastas, starting at $14, include fettucini with portabello mushrooms, tortellini alfredo and linguine with a choice of sauces. A 1906 burger platter is also offered.

Desserts at 1906 are assorted pastries or Haagen Daas ice cream. Espresso, cappuccino and a variety of spiked coffees are available as well. We shared a slice of chocolate macadamia cake, a wonderful layered, cream- topped confection with a proper bitter base.

Regular coffee and two glasses of wine apiece (it was a special occasion) brought the check to $75. Service throughout was prompt but relaxed, to a standard befitting the excellence of the food.

1906 is named for the year of the building’s construction as a bank. Growing up in the 50’s, I first ventured into it as the home of Fred Fendt’s dry goods store, where the special of the day might be socks or embroidery floss. Today, when I relax there into a guaranteed good time, surrounded by the original tin ceiling, warm brick walls and woodwork, the view across Callicoon’s Main Street competes with one into history—my personal history and that of the village. I consider the freshness of the emerald and scarlet salad, bright as any silk thread, and I wonder what Fred would think of the duck framboise.

Come find your own view. 1906 could also stand for the number of reasons to visit.

Hours: Open at 5:00 p.m. for dinner daily except Thursday.

Credit cards accepted.

Parking: Street and ample business district back lots.

Private dining room and catering available.


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