The ravishing asparagus

Asparagus has raised its stalwart green lances and stormed our winter weary produce aisles, flaunting its brightness over piles of cannonball turnips and the flavorless mercenary imported fruits. More than Punxatawney Phil, more than the occasional fickle warm day, asparagus vanquishes winter and promises spring. After all, we can see, touch, smell and taste it, and I, for one, do so as often as possible, at first in no more company than a little butter and lemon juice.

The white asparagus, favored in much of Europe, is a bit less nutritious than the green, which is cultivated in the open air rather than buried in sand, but all versions are best cooked with the tips up, preferably in stainless steel, as this method preserves most of the vitamins. In the refrigerator, upright storage in a little water will keep asparagus from drying out. Save the end pieces when you trim asparagus. Rinse, slice and freeze in a baggy for use in soup.

The ancient Phoenicians brought asparagus, a perennial of the lily-of-the-valley family, to the Greeks and Romans, some of whom considered it an aphrodisiac. How appropriate that it shows up around Valentine’s Day in our part of the world.

The season spans from February through July, and despite the thrill of bare-naked asparagus, which we succumb to now, variety is the best spice. Here are three variations on the aristocrat of vegetables to engage our interest from late winter to high summer.

Asparagus with orange and hazelnuts
from “The All-New Joy of Cooking”

1 lb. Asparagus
2 Tblsps. Butter
1 and 1/2 Tblsps. grated orange zest
1/4 cup chopped hazelnuts toasted in a 350-degree oven for 5 minutes
juice of 1/2 orange

1. Steam asparagus to preferred texture.

2. Combine all other ingredients in a large skillet and cook over medium heat until the butter is slightly brown.

3. Add cooked asparagus and toss several times to coat and heat through.

4. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serves 4 as a side dish.

Asparagus and zucchini pancakes with cheese
from “The New Elegant but Easy Cookbook”

2 oz. cream cheese (regular or light), softened
1/4 cup Parmesan cheese
2 Tbls. Flour
1 Tbls. chopped chives
1 tsp. Thyme
2 eggs + 3 egg whites
1/2 lb. zucchini, coarsely shredded and squeezed in a paper towel
1/2 lb. cooked asparagus, cut into ½-inch lengths
olive oil for pan frying

1. In a large bowl, beat together the cream cheese, Parmesan, flour, chives, thyme, whole eggs and whites. Mix in the zucchini and asparagus. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

2. Heat a large non-stick skillet until very hot. Film with a little olive oil. Drop heaping tablespoons of batter into the skillet and cook over medium-high heat until pancakes are brown. Turn and brown the other side. Repeat the process, stirring the batter and adding oil as necessary. Refrigerate cooked pancakes.

3. To serve, let pancakes return to room temperature. Reheat in a skillet with a little oil or on a cookie sheet in a 400-degree oven for 5 to 10 minutes. Top with sour cream or yogurt. Serves 4 as a main course.

Asparagus salad
from “In the Kitchen with Rosie:
Oprah’s Favorite Recipes”

30 asparagus spears, trimmed (2 average bundles)
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1 Tblsp. crumbled blue cheese
1/4 cup lemon juice
1 Tblsp. snipped chives
1 clove minced garlic
2 tomatoes, cored and cut in wedges
1/2 cup chopped fennel feathers
salt and pepper to taste

1. Steam the asparagus for about 6 minutes until tender but still bright green. Cool.

2. Combine the yogurt and blue cheese in a small saucepan. Warm for 1 to 2 minutes over low heat, whisking constantly until the blue cheese has melted. Remove from heat and whisk in lemon juice, chives and garlic.

3. Arrange asparagus on a serving platter and ring with tomato wedges. Drizzle yogurt dressing and sprinkle with salt, pepper and fennel.

Eat well.