As a grand finale to the Ellenville Farmers' Market, Sullivan County Area Farmers' Market Director Phil Yacuk has conceived a Borscht Belt competition to be held this Saturday, for which the winning entry of the classic Eastern European beet soup will win - what else? - a borscht belt. I hope true fans of the dish are plotting their courses now, selecting the perfect purple globes, rummaging for old recipes or remembering secret ones. The contest is a fun and fitting tribute to Sullivan and Ulster County's past resort presence and, perhaps, the beginning of a future draw to the area. Who knew that the thriving Garlic Festival further up the line in Ulster would develop from its humble origins as it has in a few short years?

In the meantime, we all could benefit from more of the under appreciated beet. It is an ancient food, cultivated since the third or fourth century B. C. although at first for medicinal purposes only. We know today that it is high in vitamin A, calcium and phosphorus, and it is useful for anyone with gall bladder or liver ailments.

Its peak season is May through October, so its stereotypical association with long hard Russian winters is misleading indeed. Tender baby beets and their greens should be enjoyed right now, and even the bigger bullies will behave quite nicely during warm weather, as in:

1 and 1/2 lbs beets (8-10 medium), unpeeled and scrubbed
1 tblsp olive oil
1/4 cup water
salt
1/2 lb green beans, parboiled for 10-12 minutes
1 cup mayonnaise
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tblsp warm water
1/4 red onion, thinly sliced
1/2 cup Greek olives
lemon wedges for garnish

Preheat oven to 350. Place the beets in a 9 by 13 baking dish. Drizzle with olive oil and water. Cover and bake for an hour or until beets can be easily pierced. Let stand until cool enough to handle. In a small bowl, whisk the mayonnaise, garlic and warm water to make a thick sauce. Peel beets and cut into 1/4 inch slices. To serve, arrange beet slices on a large platter. Top with warm green beans. Scatter onion and olives on top and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle with mayonnaise sauce and garnish with lemon.

Try this with grilled sausages for a different late summer or fall cookout.

5 medium to large beets
2 tblsp salt
1 stick sweet butter
1 cup finely chopped yellow onions
4 tart apples
1 tblsp sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1/4 cup raspberry or other fruity vinegar
dill

Cover trimmed and scrubbed beets with cold water, add salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, until beets are tender, about 40 minutes to an hour. Drain, cool and slip off tops and skins. Melt butter in a medium saucepan. Add onions and cook covered over medium heat for 25 minutes or until tender and lightly colored. Peel, core and chop apples and add them to the onions. Add sugar, salt and vinegar and simmer uncovered for 15 to 20 minutes or until mixture is very tender. Transfer apple mix to a food processor or food mill. Chop beets and add to apple mix. Process or mill until smooth. Return puree to saucepan and reheat and correct seasoning. Serve hot or very cold.

I'm not sure I can go toe-to-toe with the serious borscht competitors expected on Saturday, but I'm giving a variation here to put us in the spirit.

5 medium to large beets
1/2 tsp honey
2 cups buttermilk
1 tblsp lemon juice
1 tblsp dill
1/2 cup diced cucumber
2 tblsp chopped scallion
1 large potato, steamed and cubed

Just cover trimmed and scrubbed beets with cold water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, until beets are tender, about 40 minutes to an hour. Reserve 1 cup of cooking liquid. Drain remaining water and slip off tops and skins of beets when cool. Grate beets to yield 1 and 3/4 cups. Combine with reserved liquid and honey. Chill. Combine with buttermilk, lemon juice and dill. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in vegetables, or serve separately at the table. Serves 4.

Eat well.