The village is Equinunk and the barn, a big red one, bears a large welcoming "Restaurant" sign which is the first thing to see in town if you're heading north on 191, a.k.a. the Hancock-Honesdale Highway. The cheerful, casual coffee shop with paneled walls accented with framed photographs of country scenes (for sale) at first seems a larger venture than its surroundings might be expected to support, but Equinunk is a convenient hub in a wide wheel of antique businesses as well as the home of the Equinunk Historical Society. No matter what the draw, you're here and you're hungry. Just what is the Village Barn going to do about it?

First, it's going to present a menu of reliable sandwiches and burgers, with lots of hot sandwich and hoagie choices. The club sandwich, practically synonymous with turkey, is here offered with a choice of other cold cuts as well. Homey daily specials like macaroni and cheese are also available. Homey is indeed the dominant mood here. The blackboard dinner menu, which works only on Fridays and Saturdays, starts with spaghetti ($5.95, $6.95 with meatballs), includes liver with bacon and onions (an entree that even pure nostalgia couldn't get me to consider, although I know many people who love it) and is topped with a prime rib or Delmonico steak ($11.95).

Next, the Village Barn is going to be attentive to details. I started with a cup of the homemade chicken noodle soup. It arrived in a small bowl, announcing not only generosity on the part of the server, but good sense as well, given the large tender rotinis crowding out the shredded white meat and diced veggies in the tasty broth. I continued with a BLT, requested on toast with really well done bacon. When it arrived, with potato chips and pickles, the toast was still warm. I got really well done bacon. What was happening? A small but steady stream of customers attested to what I was discovering-a really nice little lunch spot.

I was happy to find Boston cream pie on the short but comforting dessert list. It seems to be scarcer than it used to be, and I was even happier when it proved to be fresh and fluffy. A large sturdy mug of tea was a bit delayed in order to insure that it arrived hot, a slight inconvenience preferable to the alternative of lukewarm water. I spent the time perusing the fliers and posters of local attractions and admiring an antique high-backed bench used to create both a booth and a blind to the service hall. Good sense again, and in good taste.

On my arrival during a lull, I had been sort of greeted by two young people who appeared to be staff but who couldn't seem to fathom why I was there. Service, once the waitress arrived, was professional throughout.

The bill for soup, sandwich, dessert and beverage was $7 plus tax. Should chance or design bring you to Equinunk, you'll find good food at bargain prices and local flavor for free at the Village Barn Restaurant.

Hours:
7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday
7 a.m. to 8 p.m. Friday, Saturday
8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday
Parking lot