I can't pass up the rhyme, but as every gardener knows, the mint plant doesn't know how to hint. It asserts itself, much to the satisfaction of novice herbalists. It sprawls. Then it crawls. It crowds out its neighbors. Out of the garden, it defines the mint julep and makes a lovely garnish, but then what?

A frequent ingredient in Middle Eastern dishes, it is seldom required by the American palate except for tea or the traditional jelly served with roast lamb. Is all that profuse pushiness for naught? Are people afraid that mint, once on the tongue, like some herbal fatal attraction, will refuse to be ignored, dominating all other flavors it might be paired with?

I hope the following recipes will allay those fears. If your formative experience with mint was a piece of generic candy growing old next to a cash register, you may be surprised to know that mint can be a versatile, healthy addition to many common dishes. Try it, preferably fresh chopped, in potato salad, or dried in macaroni and cheese. Pea or lentil soup gains pizzazz from mint. It makes a superb flavored butter, oil or vinegar.

The most common of the over 600 varieties of the genus Mentha are spearmint or garden mint, peppermint, apple mint, pineapple mint, ginger mint, round leaved mint, pennyroyal, catmint, horse mint and, recently, chocolate mint. Mint is a proven aid to digestion, hence its successful pairing with beans, peas and lentils, and it is reputed to stimulate the heart and nervous system. The primary source of menthol, mint also has antiseptic, analgesic and decongestant properties. Pretty impressive for a plant many people treat as a weed. In addition, it dries well for year-round use.

Mint and Pistachio Pesto

In a food processor or blender, grind the herbs, garlic and nuts to a paste while slowly adding the oil. Mix in the cheese and season to taste. Serve, with additional grated cheese, mixed into any cooked, hot strand pasta (spaghetti, linguine, angel hair, etc.) or use it in the next recipe.

Chicken Breasts with Lime, Mint Pesto and Honey

Put the chicken breasts in a wide bowl and pierce them all over. Spread the lime peel and juice over them, turn to coat and cover. Refrigerate for 24 - 48 hours.

Heat the olive oil and butter together in a heavy pan. Saute the breasts over moderate heat until both sides are golden. Pour the honey and wine over the breasts and season with salt and pepper. Simmer for 15 minutes, turning and basting occasionally. Spread the mint pesto over the chicken, cover and heat gently for 3 to 5 minutes. Serve on a warm platter garnished with mint sprigs.

Herbed Squash and Tomato

Heat the olive oil in a pan. Add the onion and garlic and fry briefly. Add the squash and pepper. Saute for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes. Cover and simmer for five more minutes. Combine with herbs and cheese. Serve as ratatouille, in a side dish, or use as a chunky pasta sauce.

Eat well.