There are two schools of thought when it comes to side dishes. One contends that the main course is the star, bestowing a kind of benign neglect upon its accompaniments. The other deems those savory satellites, when properly prepared, to be worthy of a meal on their own. You will find me firmly in the second camp, lavishing my attention—as both cook and eater—on a satisfying lineup of vegetables. At a steakhouse, I’m known for skipping the rib eye in favor of the grilled asparagus, creamed spinach and sweet-potato fries. If you’ve got a foot in each camp, then you need to spend at least as much time on your salads as you do on your fillets. With that as a given, I offer you some stellar sides to disrupt your dinner table.

Almost every July, I throw a big barbeque for lots of friends. The big draw is undoubtedly the Eastern North Carolina-style pulled pork, but even my vegetarian pals look forward to the occasion. Instead of smoky meat, they enjoy piling baked beans, coleslaw and bread-and-butter pickles on soft supermarket buns (the only truly acceptable vehicle for authentic barbeque). The beans are the ultimate summer side, but substantial enough to deserve top billing. Packed with umami flavors from miso, soy sauce, toasted sesame oil and Sriracha, they somehow manage to deliver a surprisingly authentic version of this sweet-savory American classic. They take a full day to cook, but can be made in advance and even keep well frozen.

The thin-skinned, tender-fleshed new potatoes unearthed in summer are a real treat. They pair so well with all the fresh herbs available at the same time. I like to boil creamy yellow potatoes until they get just a little shaggy, then toss them with a sauce made from fresh dill pureed with salted butter. Into the mix go little cubes of dill pickle for an unexpected and delightful crunch. This dish has a sunny green freshness that makes it a great alternative to heavy, mayonnaise-laden potato salads. It also classes up a grilled hot dog.

As soon as stone fruits come into season, I’m looking for ways to feature them at the peak of ripeness. The combination of sweet, tart and floral you get from peaches, plums, nectarines and cherries lends itself to a savory salad. I like slightly firmer fruit for this dish, as the pieces tend to hold their shape better. The astringency of plum skins works for me, but I recommend peeling peaches that are fuzzy. The mild cucumber flavor of purslane and borage flowers is a nice counterpoint. Actual cucumber would also work well, as would fennel or even peppery arugula. I add lots of fresh tarragon and lemon balm, plus bits of semi-soft goat cheese or fresh ricotta. For the dressing, try an assertive but fruity combination of sharp mustard, blueberry vinegar, olive oil and pink peppercorns. Some toasted walnuts or a few oil-cured black olives would not go amiss here. It’s all about the right balance of flavors, textures and colors.

Umami Baked Beans

Makes about 8 side servings

1 pound dried navy (or Great Northern) beans

4 1/2 cups water

1 large yellow onion, finely chopped

1/2 cup maple syrup, grade B

3 tablespoons unsulphured black molasses

2 tablespoons dark muscovado sugar

2 tablespoons red miso

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons Sriracha

1 tablespoon smoked paprika (spicy or mild)

1 tablespoon dry English mustard

2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

Pick over beans, discarding any rejects, then rinse and drain. Soak in cold water to cover by 2 inches at least 8 hours or overnight. 


Place oven rack in middle position and preheat to 350°. 


Drain beans and place them, along with all remaining ingredients except vinegar, in an heavy, ovenproof 3-quart pot with a lid. Stir to combine, cover pot and bake until beans are just tender, about 3 to 4 hours. 


Reduce oven temperature to 325°F. Remove lid. Bake beans, stirring occasionally, until most of liquid is absorbed but beans are still saucy, 1-2 hours or more, depending on tenderness of beans. Throughout both phases of cooking, check beans occasionally to make sure they still have some liquid; replenish with water. Remove from oven. Stir in cider vinegar, and taste for salt.