There is something magical about the transformation of milk into cheese. As Clifton Fadiman once mused, “Cheese is milk’s leap toward immortality.” We many not all be equipped with the necessary time, bacteria and expertise to make a sophisticated product like Parmesan, for example, but whipping up a batch of fresh cheese turns out to be quite easy and rewarding.

The process generally begins with adding bacteria, rennet or acid—or some combination of these—to heated milk. This curdles the milk, separating it into fluffy white curds and the watery yellowish liquid known as whey. (If you have raw milk, you can simply let it sit out on the counter in a warm spot for a couple of days and the natural bacteria it contains will cause it to separate.) The size and texture of the resulting curds differ according to the coagulant: lemon juice, vinegar, and buttermilk produce large, crumbly curds; rennet produces moister curds with a slightly milkier flavor.

From there, it’s all about the draining. This can be done with a strainer lined with cheesecloth or a hanging bag made from a clean cotton or linen kitchen towel. The amount of whey that is released from the curds affects how firm the final cheese will be. Weighting the curds for several hours turns them into paneer, the compact fresh cheese that stars in a number of Indian dishes. The curds can also be whipped or “creamed” by hand or in a food processor to make a smooth paste.

While most of us are familiar with the myriad uses for cream cheese and ricotta, all that leftover whey can be confounding. Don’t be tempted to toss it out, because not only is it full of protein, minerals and probiotics, it’s got many useful applications in the kitchen—and it’s even great for feeding the chickens and fertilizing crops!

Whey has long been appreciated as a refreshing and healthy drink. Try it chilled, flavored with fresh lemon and lightly sweetened. This faintly milky liquid has a wonderfully soft, round texture in the mouth. That’s why I love it in milk punch, an old-fashioned sailor’s recipe that also includes pineapple, spices, rum and other spirits for a smooth, potent and amazingly clear cocktail. Whey is an essential component in lacto-fermentation, where its naturally occurring bacteria help produce delicious pickles and sauerkraut. A couple of tablespoons of whey added to the water for soaking beans helps break down the enzyme inhibitors and complex sugars that can prevent you from fully digesting them. Whey can be used in place of milk or other liquids in baked goods to enhance tenderness, and it’s ideal as a base for smoothies, soups and stews of all kinds. I use it to slowly braise lots of thinly sliced onions into a soft, sweet heap that’s excellent piled onto a thick slice of grilled bread. For an unusual dessert, gently heat whey and honey until well combined, then chill thoroughly. Stir in a little orange flower water and a pinch of sea salt and freeze this mixture to make a delicious sorbet. It’s ethereal, with a delicate creaminess that will live on in your memory.

Creamy ricotta

Makes about 2 cups

2 quarts whole milk

1 cup heavy cream

5 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Line a colander with a double layer of cheesecloth or light cotton kitchen towel and place it in a large bowl.

In a heavy 6-quart pot, slowly bring milk, cream and salt just to the point of boiling (about 200ºF), stirring occasionally to prevent scorching. Remove from heat and add lemon juice, stirring slowly and gently as the mixture curdles.

Pour the mixture into the lined colander and let it drain for 1-2 hours, depending on how firm you like it. If you want a creamy, spreadable texture, drain for an hour and whip the curds in a food processor. The cheese will keep, tightly covered in the refrigerator, for about 3-4 days. Bottle the whey and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks, or in the freezer for several months.

Whey-braised onions

Makes about 2 cups

4 medium yellow onions

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 1/2 cups whey

Peel the onions and slice them very thinly. Combine all the ingredients in a heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Immediately reduce to a gentle simmer and cook, partially covered, until all the liquid is absorbed and the onions are pale golden and extremely soft, about 2-3 hours. Enjoy with toast, potatoes, rice, cheese, tomatoes, roast chicken or braised meats.