Don’t you love it when something that has been around for millennia—fasting! kale!—suddenly becomes a trend? So it was that 2015 became the year of bone broth, despite the fact that this rich soup has probably been providing essential nourishment since the Stone Age. Think of it as the original comfort food. The benefits being touted range from clear skin to increased energy, and anyone who has ever enjoyed homemade chicken soup understands its restorative powers.

The difference between broth and stock is often a question of semantics, but the consensus seems to be that stock is a relatively clear, unsalted liquid made by slowly simmering bones and sometimes vegetables, which is then used as the basis for sauces and soups; broth is a simple soup in itself, more highly seasoned than stock and perhaps containing bits of meat. In most recipes, the two can be interchanged, though stock is more neutral, with a strength and seasoning dependent on how it will be used.

To make stocks with bones, seek out pastured animals from the farms where they are raised. Upstate we are lucky to have greater access to the feet, knuckles, shanks and even hooves that make the best stock. Alternatively, oxtails and short ribs are among the more readily available cuts good for broth, and combining a few meaty pieces of chuck with some marrow bones is also a fine option. For chicken broth, a whole bird works well, especially if you can find one complete with its head and feet. The more bony pieces added—like extra wing tips, necks and feet—the higher the gelatin content and the richer and silkier the broth.

For an in-depth look at the benefits of bone broth, I recommend you read Sally Fallon’s seminal “Nourishing Traditions: The Cookbook that Challenges Politically Correct Nutrition and the Diet Dictocrats.” In it, she underscores the importance of bone broths for their mineral content—especially calcium, magnesium and potassium—and vital collagen, a wonderful digestive aid and rich source of amino acids. Broth made from the bones of pastured animals contains glucosamine and chondroitin, which stimulate the growth of new collagen, repair joints, ease arthritis and reduce pain and inflammation. The minerals, collagen and phosphorus strengthen and repair bones and support skin, hair and nail growth. Broth also helps fight infections such as colds and flu.

A pot of stock can simmer almost indefinitely. In the old days, there was always a “perpetual broth” bubbling away on the stove, periodically replenished with new bones and more water. In order to render out all their collagen, beef bones should cook for at least eight to 10 hours, or up to 24; poultry can take less time, though Fallon still recommends much longer than the three to four hours suggested in many cookbooks. Beyond creating savory and nutritious broths, stocks are the hard-working foundation for all manner of dishes and can be used almost anywhere in place of other liquids with excellent results. Try them in rice or polenta, to deglaze a roasting pan, or to thin a Bolognese. Roasting bones and vegetables prior to simmering creates an even richer depth that works well in earthier dishes. To make your own bone broths and stocks is to marvel at how this combination of a few meaty bones and some simple vegetables gives rise to such exquisite bounty.

Chicken stock

Lightly adapted from “Nourishing Traditions”

Makes 3-4 quarts

2-3 pounds bony chicken parts (necks, backs, wings and feet) or 1 whole pastured chicken, gizzards optional

4 quarts cold filtered water

2 tablespoons vinegar

1 large onion (skin on), coarsely chopped

2 carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped

3 celery sticks, coarsely chopped

1-2 leeks, white and light green parts only, cleaned and coarsely chopped

1 bunch parsley

If you are using a whole chicken, cut off the wings and remove the neck and gizzards from the cavity. Cut chicken and any large bony parts into several smaller pieces. Place in a large stainless steel pot with water, vinegar and all vegetables except parsley. Let stand for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Bring to a boil and skim off scum that rises to the top. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 6 to 24 hours. The longer you cook the stock, the richer and more flavorful it will be.

About 10 minutes before finishing the stock, stir in the parsley. This imparts additional mineral ions. Turn the heat off and cool. Strain the stock through a fine mesh into a large bowl, pot or jar and refrigerate, covered, until fat rises to the top and congeals. Skim this off and transfer the stock to covered containers to store in your fridge or freezer. It will keep in your fridge for three to four days; if you want to keep it there longer, you need to boil it again.