With the cool weather we’ve been having lately, many ripening vegetables have stalled at the green stage. And as soon as the frost descends, any fruit that’s still hanging on your tomato vines is done for. This is sad but not altogether without remedy, for green tomatoes have a charm all their own. Rather than offering up the sweet, juicy contours of their red brethren, they provide a crisp, tart alternative that is delicious in a number of preparations.

Among my favorites is chutney, made with lots of onions, chile peppers, ginger and spices, including cardamom, cayenne, fenugreek and mustard seeds. This can be made in a small batch to keep in the refrigerator, or in greater quantity to put up like jam. It’s wonderful with curries, on a cheese sandwich, or served alongside roast chicken. I also like to preserve my green tomatoes in a spectacular-looking and -tasting marmalade made with translucent slices of lemon. By the time you’re finished simmering the fruit with sugar, coriander seeds and red pepper flakes, it hangs suspended in a pale green syrup that thickens as it cools. It’s sweet but also tart with a hint of bitterness, as a good marmalade must be, and goes equally well with pound cake or grilled steak. And of course there’s always the classic Southern dish of fried green tomatoes, an inspired way to enjoy your unripe specimens. They hold up well to a light cornmeal batter and high heat cooking, ideally in a perfectly seasoned cast-iron skillet slicked with bacon fat. A blob of lemony mayonnaise on the side is essential, if you ask me.

Green tomatoes are also delicious raw, especially when you stop comparing them to red ones and begin to appreciate their astringent crunch. They make a nice fresh salsa, mimicking the flavor of their look-alike, the tomatillo. Despite their names and the fact that both are members of the nightshade family (Solanaceae), the tomatillo (Physalis philadelphica) is not closely related to the tomato (Solanum lycopersicum). This small, round fruit, sometimes known as the Husk Tomato, is usually green but is sometimes yellow, red, or even purple, and always distinguished by a papery husk. When ripe, it fills the husk to the point of bursting. Tomatillos grow throughout the Western Hemisphere as an annual, but they originated in Mexico and are most often associated with the cuisine of that country. I sometimes see people peering at them curiously at farmers’ markets, but they’re often passed over in favor of more familiar vegetables. It’s a shame because tomatillos are delicious, with a vegetal tartness, and are quite versatile.

If you find tomatillos that are firm and fresh, buy a few pounds as they will keep refrigerated for a couple of weeks—longer if you remove the husks and seal the fruit in a plastic bag. Like their close relative, the cape gooseberry, tomatillos have a high pectin content, so they make wonderful jams and jellies. But they are also good pickled, stewed with a chunk of ham, or chopped and added to a frittata. Their citrusy flavor cuts through richness and pairs nicely with cheese, eggs and cream.

I make a fresh relish—a Mexican salsa verde—by whizzing tomatillos in a blender or food processor with garlic, white onion, cilantro and jalapeños. The bright, spicy concoction goes so well with salty tortilla chips (not to mention a frosty margarita). You can also use it to dress a cabbage slaw or an avocado salad. A cooked version of this salsa, spiced with cumin and coriander and pureed with toasted pumpkin seeds, is another Mexican classic, a light, tangy sauce that is excellent with stewed chicken, grilled pork loin or refried beans. It freezes well and I’ll often defrost a bag in the middle of winter to make a pan of enchiladas. The fresh taste and green hue provide an unexpected connection to summer long after the killing frost.

Fried Green Tomatoes

Serves 4

4 large, firm green tomatoes

1 cup all-purpose flour

2 large eggs

½ cup buttermilk

1 cup cornmeal

Lard, bacon fat or vegetable oil

Core tomatoes and cut into ½-inch-thick slices. Set aside.

Spread the flour on a plate and season with salt and pepper. Beat the eggs with the buttermilk in a medium bowl. Spread the cornmeal on another plate.

Heat about ½-inch of lard, bacon fat or vegetable oil over medium-high heat in a cast-iron skillet until almost smoking.

Meanwhile, dredge the tomato slices in the flour, shaking off any excess. Next, dip them in the egg mixture, letting excess run off. Then dredge them in the cornmeal.

Slip slices into the hot pan in batches, so as not to crowd them. Cook about 2 minutes per side, until nicely browned. Transfer to a paper-towel lined plate. If desired, keep warm in a 225º oven as you fry the remaining slices.

Serve warm with mayonnaise, chutney or the condiment of your choice.

Tomatillo Sauce

Makes 8 cups

3 pounds tomatillos, husks & stems removed

5 garlic cloves, peeled

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 Tablespoon coriander seeds

1 large yellow onion, peeled and diced

2 jalapeños (or to taste), seeded and minced

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 cup pepitas (shelled pumpkin seeds)

1 heaping teaspoon Mexican oregano

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock, preferably homemade, or water

Preheat oven to 350º. Cover a baking sheet with parchment.

Toss whole tomatillos and garlic cloves with olive oil and spread on sheet. Sprinkle generously with salt. Roast for 40 minutes, until very soft. 


Meanwhile, heat a small skillet over medium heat and lightly toast the coriander seeds. Watch them closely as this will only take a few seconds. Cool before grinding in a spice grinder or with a mortar and pestle. Set aside. 


In a large, heavy pot, heat 2 Tablespoons olive oil over medium heat and sauté onion, jalapeños, 2 teaspoons of the ground, toasted coriander, cumin and pepitas, until onion is soft and mixture is fragrant, about 10-15 minutes. Turn off heat. 


Remove tomatillos and garlic from oven and slide into the same pot. Add stock or water and heat over medium-high heat, using a large spoon to gently break up the soft tomatillos. Cook for another 10-15 minutes to meld flavors. Remove from heat. 


Cool slightly and process, in batches as need, to a smooth consistency. Taste and adjust seasoning.