During our lesson we stay between the breakpoint and the beach. The instructor keeps it pretty beginner, which I’m happy about. He pushes me into many of the waves and I’m able to stand up a few times.
It’s an incredible feeling. Standing up there, riding the wave, I almost can’t believe it. And then I lean down a bit too much on my front foot and the board shoots out from underneath me throwing me into the water.
It happens in an instant and reminds me how powerful the ocean is.
“Good one, dude,” the surf instructor says as I pop up spitting and disoriented. “Fun, right?”
Waiting for the next wave, I ask foolishly, “How do you know which wave to take?”
He pauses for a moment, trying to figure out an easy answer.
“I guess that’s the whole thing, right?” I add.
“Yeah,” he says with a grin, “That’s the whole thing.”